how should I think about a fixer upper that has been on the market for over 100 days?

Kevin, 121 days usually means price, condition, or both, and that gives you room to negotiate. When you tour, focus on the big ticket items: roof age, foundation cracks, water heater and furnace age, electrical panel, plumbing type, and any signs of water in the basement. Ask the agent for price history, any failed contracts and why, and whether the seller has inspection reports or bids. Cosmetic work like paint, flooring and fixtures is the good kind of fixer. Structural, sewer line or full systems replacement is where budgets blow up, so get a sewer scope in Utah's older neighborhoods. I'm a licensed general contractor and walk a lot of these with buyers. Feel free to reach out if you want a second set of eyes.

Kevin, a home that has been on the market for 121 days can absolutely be worth looking at—especially if it gets you close to the neighborhood you really want. In fact, the longer market time may give you more negotiating power. But with an older home, I would look beyond the cosmetic updates and focus first on the things that could become expensive. When you tour the home, pay attention to the roof, foundation, windows, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and any signs of water damage or moisture. Outdated flooring, paint, cabinets, and fixtures are usually manageable projects. Foundation problems, major plumbing or electrical issues, sewer problems, or a failing roof can turn a “little fixer-upper” into a much bigger project very quickly. I would also ask your agent to find out why the home has been sitting for 121 days. Has the price been reduced? Have previous buyers backed out? Were there prior inspections or contracts that fell through? What feedback have other buyers given? Sometimes a home sits simply because it is dated or priced too high, but sometimes there is something more important behind the longer market time. Before making an offer, I would also have your agent pull comparable sales and help you look at the numbers: what is the home worth in its current condition, approximately how much would your planned improvements cost, and what could it reasonably be worth after those improvements? You don't want to pay renovated-home pricing for a house that still needs significant work. And definitely don't skip the inspection. If there are specific concerns, you may want additional inspections by the appropriate professionals as well. If you love the location and the house has good bones, a dated home can actually be a great opportunity. Just separate the projects that are mostly cosmetic from the ones that could cost tens of thousands of dollars. A house that needs paint, flooring and a kitchen refresh is very different from one that needs a roof, foundation work, plumbing and electrical. I always tell my buyers: don't be afraid of an ugly house in a great location—but make sure you understand exactly what you're buying before you fall in love with the possibilities.

A home that's been on the market that long isn't necessarily a bad buy—it may simply be overpriced or need updates that scare off other buyers. Focus on the expensive items first: the roof, foundation, HVAC, plumbing, electrical, and windows. Ask why it's been on the market, what updates have been done, and whether there have been previous inspections or repair estimates. If the major systems are sound, cosmetic updates can often be a great way to build equity.

How much work are you willing to take on and do you have the funds to do said projects? Those are the two most important factors to consider. Keith Jean-Pierre Managing Principal The Dapper Agents Real Estate Operations in ALL 50 States

Could be priced high. Could have major issues. But this varies wildly by market niche. I'd ask myself, "are there 5 others on the street or none." Is it the worst house in the hood or the best? Those facts matter a great deal. I'd start by talking to the owner or the listing agent to gauge feedback, history of offers as well as motivation of the seller.

Kevin, 121 days is information, not a warning. Your whole job on this one is to find out which kind of information it is, because there are only three real answers and two of them are good news for you. Either it is overpriced, or it needs work the average buyer cannot finance, or there is something structurally wrong with the property or the title. The first two are opportunities. The third is a walk. Here is how I would work it. Pull the listing history before you tour. Ask your agent for the full MLS history: original list price, every reduction with the date, and whether it has been withdrawn and relisted. A relist resets days on market and hides the real number, so ask for cumulative days on market, not just the number showing on the portal. A house that started high and has come down twice is priced wrong. A house that has sat at the same number for 121 days has a seller who is not ready. Then ask the listing agent one question: has it been under contract before, and what happened? If it fell out of escrow twice on inspection, you have just learned more than any walkthrough will tell you. At the showing, look past the ugly. Cosmetic is cheap. Look at roof age, the electrical panel, the furnace and water heater, evidence of moisture in the basement or crawlspace, and foundation cracks. In older Utah County stock I would also budget for a sewer scope, which is a couple hundred dollars and is the single highest value inspection you can buy on an old house. A collapsed lateral is a five figure surprise. Ask specifically about permits on anything that looks added or finished. Unpermitted square footage does not count as living area for the appraisal and can complicate your loan. Now the part almost nobody mentions on a question like this. If the reason it has sat is that it will not pass a standard appraisal, ordinary buyers cannot touch it, and that is exactly why it is still available. Two loan products exist for this: FHA 203(k). The Limited version lets you finance up to $75,000 of rehab into the purchase loan, with nine months to complete the work, and it does not require a consultant. The Standard version handles bigger jobs and structural work. Fannie Mae HomeStyle Renovation. Conventional equivalent, more flexible on what you can do, underwritten against the as-completed appraised value, and it follows the conforming limits. Both take a lender who actually does them regularly, so ask for one who has closed several. That is your leverage: if you can close on a house most buyers cannot finance, your offer is worth more to that seller than the price alone suggests. On the offer itself, at 121 days you have room. Write it with a full inspection contingency, get your bids during the contingency period, and be willing to renegotiate on findings rather than trying to guess the repair number up front. I am a real estate professional, not a lender or a contractor, so get real bids and a real loan officer before you commit. I work in Los Angeles and the South Bay, so I am not your agent in Provo, but I am glad to help you find a Utah County agent who knows renovation financing. Zoltan Peresztegi, Los Angeles and South Bay real estate professional Zoltan

Kevin, the answers above already give you a strong playbook, ask why it hasn't sold, get the big-ticket systems checked first (roof, HVAC, plumbing, electrical panel, foundation), use the 121 days as leverage on price and credits, and get a contractor's rough numbers before you're emotionally attached. All of that is right and I won't repeat it. Here's the piece missing from every answer so far: how you actually pay for the work. You said you're fine with some projects but not a gut job, which puts you in exactly the right spot for a renovation loan, and none of the six answers above mention this option. Two programs let you finance the purchase and the repairs in a single mortgage, instead of paying cash out of pocket after closing: FHA 203(k). The Limited version covers cosmetic and non-structural work, generally capped around 35,000 dollars, roughly paint, flooring, kitchens, baths, that kind of scope. The Standard version goes further and can handle structural work too. Requires around a 580 credit score, 3.5 percent down on the combined purchase price plus repair budget, and it's for a primary residence only. Fannie Mae HomeStyle Renovation. Requires around 620 credit, down payment as low as 3 percent for qualified buyers, and it's more flexible about what the money can be spent on, though a licensed contractor still has to submit a detailed scope and cost estimate as part of your loan file. Why this matters for your specific situation: it changes what "worth it" means. Right now you're mentally comparing the asking price against a lump sum of cash you'd need after closing. With a renovation loan, the repair cost gets folded into one monthly payment at mortgage rates instead of coming out of savings or a higher-rate personal loan or credit card. That can make a home that looked financially tight on a straight cash-repair basis actually pencil out comfortably, or it can reveal that even with financing the numbers still don't work, which is useful information either way. The catch worth knowing upfront: both programs add real time and paperwork to your purchase. You'll need a renovation-savvy loan officer, likely a specialized appraisal based on the completed value, and a contractor willing to work within program requirements. Ask a lender who actually does 203(k) or HomeStyle volume, not just any loan officer, because these are more involved than a standard purchase loan and not every originator handles them well. Practical next step: before you write an offer, get the same contractor's rough numbers everyone above recommended, then take those numbers to a 203(k) or HomeStyle lender and ask what your monthly payment looks like with the repairs financed in. Compare that to what the same monthly payment buys you in a move-in-ready home nearby. That comparison, not the sticker price of the fixer, is what tells you whether this is actually the better deal. I am a real estate professional, not a lender, so get exact program numbers and your specific qualification from a loan officer who specializes in renovation lending. I am Zoltan Peresztegi and I work in Los Angeles and the South Bay, including the Palos Verdes Peninsula. Provo is outside my market. Message me and I will connect you with a strong local agent and a renovation-loan lender in Utah County at no cost to you. Ask a lender specifically about 203(k) or HomeStyle before you decide the repair cost is a dealbreaker. It might not be. Zoltan

Hi Kevin, This is a great question and you’re already thinking about this the right way. A home that’s been on the market for 121 days in a good neighborhood usually signals one thing: condition vs. price. It might be dated, need work, or simply be priced too high for its current state. None of that is automatically bad; it just means you should walk in with a clear checklist. Here’s how to evaluate it like a smart buyer who’s open to projects but not major surprises: 1. Focus on the expensive items first Cosmetic updates are easy. What you want to understand are the big‑ticket systems: -Roof age and condition -Electrical panel (old or undersized?) -Plumbing type (galvanized = costly to replace) -HVAC age and functionality -Water heater age -Windows (single vs. dual pane) If these are in decent shape, the home may simply be “ugly but solid,” which is the best kind of fixer. 2. Look for water issues Water is the #1 dealbreaker: -Ceiling stains -Soft flooring -Musty smell -Cracks around windows/doors -Moisture in crawlspace/basement -If you see any of these, dig deeper. 3. Pay attention to structure You don’t want a project that turns into a rebuild: -Sloping floors -Large cracks -Doors that don’t close -Signs of settling These can be expensive and time‑consuming. 4. Ask the listing agent the right questions You’ll learn a lot by asking: -Why hasn’t it sold? -Any offers that fell through? -Any inspection reports available? -Any unpermitted additions? -Has the seller reduced the price? Long days on market often mean the seller is more open to negotiation. 5. Think about layout and resale Even if the home is dated, ask yourself: -Does the layout make sense? -Can you improve it without major construction? -Will the neighborhood support the value after updates? A good location + good bones = strong long‑term upside. 6. Your advantage as a buyer Homes sitting over 100 days give you leverage: Price flexibility Repair credits Seller‑paid rate buydowns (my favorite in today's market) Closing cost help Good luck!

A home that's been on the market for 100+ days isn't necessarily a bad opportunity. In fact, some of the best deals are homes that need cosmetic updates and have been overlooked by buyers searching for move-in-ready properties. The key is figuring out whether you're looking at a cosmetic fixer or a major renovation. When you tour the home, pay close attention to the "big-ticket" items first. Ask about the age of the roof, HVAC system, plumbing, electrical, windows, and water heater. Replacing paint, flooring, cabinets, and countertops is one thing, but foundation issues, extensive water damage, outdated electrical panels, or major plumbing problems can quickly turn an affordable home into an expensive project. Don't hesitate to ask the listing agent why the property has been on the market for so long. It could simply be priced too high, or previous buyers may have uncovered issues during inspections. Also ask if the seller has received any inspection reports, whether there have been price reductions, and if they're motivated to negotiate. As you're walking through the home, think about whether the layout works for you. Cosmetic finishes can be changed, but moving walls or adding square footage is much more expensive. A home in a neighborhood you love can often be worth investing in if the structure is solid. If you decide to move forward, make your offer contingent on a thorough home inspection. Depending on what the inspector finds, you may also want specialists to evaluate the roof, foundation, sewer line, or electrical system. Those inspections can give you a much clearer picture of the true cost of ownership before you're committed. Finally, have your Realtor help you estimate renovation costs before making an offer. Knowing what the improvements will realistically cost can help you decide whether the asking price still makes sense and give you leverage during negotiations. Best of luck—I hope it turns out to be a hidden gem! Juan Picos Realtor® | JohnHart Real Estate Burbank, CA

Hey Kevin, I think it's worth looking at it. A home sitting for 121 days doesn’t always mean something is seriously wrong with it. It could be overpriced, poorly marketed, outdated, or just scaring buyers away because it looks like it needs work. The biggest thing is figuring out if the work is mostly cosmetic or if it has bigger, expensive issues. When you walk through it, take note of the things you see ask why the seller thinks it hasn’t sold, whether they’ve had previous offers, and whether any buyers backed out after an inspection. The good thing about a home that has been sitting that long is the seller may be more open to negotiating on price, repairs, or closing costs. You’re not committing to anything by going to see it. If you like the location, layout, and potential, then get a really good inspection and contractor estimates before moving forward. A dated home can be a great opportunity. You just want to make sure it’s an ugly house and not a house with ugly problems.

A home that has been on the market for more than 100 days is not necessarily a bad purchase, but it is worth finding out why it has not sold. It may be overpriced, need more work than buyers expected, or have a condition or financing issue that has discouraged previous buyers. Before making an offer, ask whether seller disclosures, inspection reports, repair estimates, or permit records are available. During the showing, look beyond dated finishes and pay attention to major systems such as the roof, foundation, electrical panel, plumbing, heating and air conditioning, windows, and sewer line. Also ask whether any previous buyers canceled and, if so, whether the seller will explain why. A real estate agent can help you compare the home with recent sales and determine whether the asking price reflects its condition. If your offer is accepted, keep an inspection contingency and hire a qualified home inspector. Depending on what is found, you may also need specialty inspections. The key question is not simply whether the home needs work, but whether the likely repairs fit your budget, timeline, and comfort level. Cosmetic projects can often be completed gradually. Major structural or system repairs can be much more expensive and disruptive. Paula Brown, REALTOR® Keller Williams Realty La Cañada Flintridge CA DRE #02235865 ABR® | GREEN | SRES® | Probate & Trust Specialist Serving La Cañada Flintridge, La Crescenta, Glendale, Pasadena, and nearby foothill communities.

Kevin, Days on market are seeing a longer time frame than in the past, there are many reasons this may be. Location, overpricing, or just slower market stats. You should as for a Property disclosure, you can take an inspector along (On your Dime) who can take a brief overview of what they see needs attention. If its an older home, expect repairs needed, but any recent updates, or concerns will be stated on the Property Disclosure which is completed by the current owner, keep in mind that they must be honest in this document. While my husband and I are licensed in 5 states, we can help you find a referral agent in Utah. Look us up [email protected]. We can give you some guidance Good luck Karen And Byron

Kevin, 121 days on the market is the first thing I'd dig into, because a home that's sat that long in a neighborhood you love is usually telling you something. Sometimes it's just dated and overpriced, which is fixable with a lower offer. Sometimes it's a layout problem or a big-ticket issue scaring buyers off, and that's the part you want to uncover before you fall for it. When you walk it, look past the ugly and check the expensive bones: roof age, the electrical panel, plumbing, HVAC, and any sign of water in the basement or crawlspace. Ask why it hasn't sold, what's already been reduced, and whether there've been offers that fell through on inspection. Since you're fine with small projects but not a gut job, get a contractor's rough numbers before you're emotionally committed. I'm licensed in California, so lean on a Provo agent for what's normal in Utah. Alla Novytska, Realtor®, JohnHart Real Estate, DRE #02254775