Tamika, yes, but the more useful answer is that land leasing is a different specialty from residential sales, and the person you want is a farm and land agent or a farm manager rather than whoever sold you a house. On 12.5 open acres with water, the difference in what you net is not small. The first thing to settle is what you are actually leasing it for, because those are separate markets with separate rents, separate terms and separate risk. Row crop or hay. Straight cash rent per acre, usually annual, and the rent depends on soil productivity, drainage and access more than on total acreage. Twelve and a half acres is small for a row crop operator, but a neighboring farmer who is already working adjacent ground will often take it because the marginal cost to them is low. That neighbor is frequently the best tenant you will ever find. Grazing. Lower rent per acre than crop ground, and you need to think about fencing and about who is responsible for it. With a pond and spring heads, water access is an asset here and worth naming in the lease. Recreational and hunting. Someone already mentioned hunting leases, and they were right that this is often the highest and simplest use for a parcel your size. Season-long, paid up front, low wear on the land. Longer-term commercial uses. Solar options, cell tower or communications sites, and billboard easements if you are near a road with traffic. These pay far more but they are long-term encumbrances that affect resale and financing, and the first contract a developer hands you is written entirely for them. Never sign one without an attorney who has done that specific type before. For the rent number, two free sources. USDA's National Agricultural Statistics Service publishes county-level cash rent survey data for cropland and pastureland, so you can look up your county rather than guess. And Virginia Cooperative Extension publishes farm lease guidance and sample lease agreements, which is the single most useful thing you can print before you talk to anyone. Between those two you will walk into the conversation knowing the range, which is most of the negotiation. Three things to insist on in whatever you sign, regardless of use. Liability and insurance. You have a pond and spring heads on the property, which is exactly the feature that generates injury claims. Require the tenant to carry liability coverage and to name you as an additional insured, and get the certificate before they set foot on it. Term and renewal. Match the term to the use. A one-year farm lease that renews is fine. A twenty-five year solar option is a different animal and should be priced like one. Restrictions in writing. What they may and may not do to the pond, the springs, the fence lines and the timber, and who is responsible for taxes, gates and road maintenance. On finding the agent: look for someone who works farm and land specifically. The Accredited Land Consultant designation from the REALTORS Land Institute is a useful signal, and your county Extension office and Farm Bureau both know who the real land people are locally. Ask any candidate how many lease agreements they negotiated in the last two years, not how many houses they sold. I am a real estate professional in Los Angeles and the South Bay, and I am not going to pretend to know southwest Virginia farm ground. But the framework holds, and I am glad to help you find a strong land specialist in your area if you want a starting point. My name is Zoltan Peresztegi. Zoltan


