what to expect in home inspection?

Noah, congratulations on your first home. The thread already gave you the essentials (go with the inspector or catch them at the end, it is a condition report not a pass/fail, focus on big-ticket items over cosmetics, and use the report to negotiate). Since this is your first home and it is right at 30 years old, let me add the age-specific things that actually matter and two inspections most first-time buyers do not know to order. At 30 years, several big systems tend to hit end of life around the same time, so have the inspector tell you the age and remaining life of each: the roof, the HVAC, and the water heater especially. Also ask two specific questions: - What brand is the electrical panel? Panels from that era can include recalled brands like Federal Pacific (FPE) or Zinsco that are a known fire hazard and that some insurers will not cover. If it is one of those, that is a real negotiation item. - Is there any original galvanized or polybutylene plumbing? Both can be near the end of their life and worth pricing out. Two add-on inspections a standard inspection does NOT include, and that are worth every penny on an older home: - A sewer scope. The inspector runs a camera down the main sewer line. On a 30-year-old home, root intrusion or a cracked line is a common 5,000 to 15,000 dollar surprise that a normal inspection will never catch. Order it now, before your inspection window closes. - A radon test. This one matters in your area: Reno and Washoe County are a high-radon region, and radon is not part of a standard inspection. Washoe County offers low-cost test kits, and your inspector can usually add a radon test. It is cheap insurance for your health. A few prep tips for the day: bring the seller's disclosure and cross-check it against what the inspector finds, and have them show you the main water shutoff, the gas shutoff, and the electrical panel so you know your house. Afterward, do not panic at a long list, that is normal for a 30-year-old home. Pick your top two or three health, safety, and big-ticket items, get quick contractor quotes during your inspection contingency period, and use those to ask for repairs or, often better, a closing-cost credit so you control the work. I am a real estate professional in the Los Angeles and South Bay area, so I am not local to Reno, but I am glad to help you read the report when it comes back or talk through what is worth negotiating. Congratulations again. Zoltan

Expect the inspector to go through the whole house and check: • Roof, foundation, plumbing, electrical, HVAC • Windows, doors, attic, crawlspace/basement • Signs of leaks, damage, or safety issues Yes—go with them if you can. It helps you: • See issues in real time • Ask questions • Learn how the home actually works Just don’t expect it to be a “pass/fail” test—it’s more of a condition report so you know what you’re buying and what may need repair soon.

Expect a long list. That’s normal, especially for a 30 year old house. An inspection isn’t a pass or fail. It’s a snapshot of condition. You’re going to see a lot of small stuff. Loose outlets, worn seals, minor cracks. Don’t let that overwhelm you. Focus on the big things. Roof age, HVAC, plumbing, electrical, and any signs of water. That’s where the real money is. You should go, just not for the whole thing. Show up toward the end and have the inspector walk you through it. Ask what’s urgent, what’s coming up, and what can wait. Also ask them what they would fix first if it was their house. That usually gives you a clear priority list. You’re not trying to find a perfect house. You’re trying to understand what you’re walking into.

A home inspection is a visual examination of the major systems and structural components of a property conducted by a licensed inspector. In Florida, inspectors are licensed by the state and follow a Standard of Practice that defines what they are and are not required to inspect. In Hernando County and Citrus County, a standard home inspection typically takes 2.5 to 4 hours depending on the home size and age. The inspector will cover the roof, attic, foundation, exterior walls and grading, all electrical systems visible, plumbing systems and fixtures, HVAC equipment and ductwork, insulation, windows and doors, and the major interior components. You should attend if at all possible, because the inspector will explain findings in real time and that context is more valuable than the written report alone. What a standard inspection does not cover: septic systems (require a separate licensed septic inspection), pools and spa equipment (recommend a separate pool inspection), mold testing (requires a certified mold assessor), wind mitigation (a separate report relevant for Florida insurance discounts), and four-point inspections (a specific form insurers request covering roof, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC). In Florida, getting a wind mitigation report alongside your standard inspection often pays for itself immediately in homeowner insurance premium reductions. After the inspection, you typically have a specific window defined in your FAR/BAR contract to request repairs or credits from the seller before your inspection period expires. Going in knowing what the inspection covers and does not cover lets you plan the right additional inspections for your specific property type. Kevin Neely & Kaitlynd Robbins | K2 Sells, Keller Williams Elite Partners

Go around with the inspector, good inspectors tend to point things out to you that they think you should be aware of.

What to expect during a home inspection: It’s less about what you do before, and more about what you do after. ⸻ Step 1: Choose your inspector • You can use someone your agent recommends • Or find your own and ask questions (especially if it’s your first home) ⸻ Step 2: During the inspection • You can attend, but it’s usually best to show up toward the end • Let the inspector focus, then have them walk you through the main issues ⸻ Step 3: Understand what matters You’re mainly looking at: • Major systems (roof, HVAC, plumbing, electrical) • Safety issues • Big repair items The report may look overwhelming—this is normal. ⸻ Step 4: What happens after (most important) Now you decide what to do based on: • Condition of the home • Estimated repair costs Your options: • Ask the seller to fix issues • Ask for credits (to help with costs) • Or walk away if it doesn’t make sense Bottom line: “In my professional opinion, the inspection is there to give you clarity, not to scare you. No home is perfect—what matters is understanding the condition and deciding what works for you. I’ll help guide you, but the final decision is always yours.”

I usually suggest to meet up with the inspector towards the end of the inspection. Allow them the time and space to do their job. Once they have reviewed the Home as a whole, they can sit down with you and point out areas of concern. Most inspectors will also allow you to call and discuss any issues you notice later after getting home when looking at the report. Always ask questions and make sure you’re comfortable before purchasing with repairs that will need to be done later and or negotiated during contract.

For a ~30-year-old home, expect some wear—focus on big-ticket items like the roof (age, leaks, missing shingles), HVAC (age, condition, service history), plumbing (leaks, old piping, water pressure), electrical (panel, outdated wiring, safety issues), foundation/structure (cracks, settling), and water issues (drainage, crawlspace, attic, mold); yes, go to the inspection—walk it with the inspector, ask questions in real time, and have them show you main shutoffs, panel, and filters; remember no house is perfect, focus on safety and expensive repairs, not cosmetic issues, and use the detailed report afterward to negotiate.

Noah, all inspectors are different in how they handle clients at the inspection, some will welcome clients to walk with them, while other inspectors would prefer to complete the inspection and then take the client on a tour of findings. Keep in mind, that there is liability to allow a buyer to walk on a roof or crawl under the house and most agents will limit the buyer to have 2 feet on the ground at all times. All the best.