Above 20 percent, extra down payment buys you almost nothing, and below 20 percent the mortgage insurance question has a legal expiration date that most buyers do not know about. Once you know both of those, your cushion worry answers the question for you. Start with the part people get wrong. Under the Homeowners Protection Act of 1998, private mortgage insurance must terminate automatically once your loan-to-value reaches 78 percent of the original value on the original amortization schedule, as long as you are current on payments. And you can request cancellation in writing at 80 percent, subject to a good payment history and the lender potentially asking you to show the value has not declined and there are no second liens. So PMI is not a permanent penalty for putting down less than 20 percent. It is a temporary line item with a statutory end date that arrives on a schedule you can look up before you even close. Ask your loan officer to print you the amortization schedule with the 78 percent date circled. Seeing that date changes how the decision feels. Which reframes your actual question. Dollars above 20 percent are not solving a mortgage insurance problem, because there is no mortgage insurance above 20 percent. They are buying you a smaller balance at your note rate, and that is all. That is a real but modest benefit, and you are paying for it with liquidity. Your cushion worry is the correct worry, and I would let it win. Here is the number I would fund before deciding on any down payment percentage: - Six months of the full new payment, meaning principal, interest, property taxes, homeowners insurance, and any association dues, sitting liquid after closing. - Your homeowners insurance deductible, in cash, separately. - Roughly 1 percent of the purchase price per year set aside for maintenance. On a $350,000 house that is about $290 a month, and it is not optional, it is just deferred until something breaks. Fund all three first. Whatever is left over is your down payment. If that lands at 12 percent instead of 22, that is a fine outcome, and the PMI comes off on the schedule anyway. The reason I would not stretch: a dollar in your down payment can only come back out through a sale, a refinance, or a home equity line. If the water heater goes in month four and you are house-poor, you will be borrowing at HELOC rates for money you had in your hand at closing. That is the one-way door, and it is the mistake I see most often with buyers who tried to hit a percentage. One more thing, since the thread mentioned recasting. If you do land a windfall a year or two in, ask your servicer whether they will recast the loan. A recast re-amortizes the balance after a lump sum so your monthly payment actually drops, without a new loan or new closing costs. Most servicers will for a modest fee, but you generally have to ask for it by name, and it is a much better tool than making extra principal payments if lowering your payment is the goal. Wisconsin note: get an actual property tax figure for the specific Franklin address rather than an estimate, and get a real insurance quote before you finalize your budget. Those two lines move the monthly payment more than a couple of points of down payment will. I am a real estate professional, not a lender or a financial advisor. Have your loan officer run the payment at three down payment levels side by side, with the PMI amount and the PMI termination date shown on each. That comparison makes this decision in about five minutes. I am Zoltan Peresztegi, and I work in Los Angeles and the South Bay, so Franklin is not my market, but if you want an introduction to a strong Milwaukee area agent, just ask. Zoltan


