Kayla, I want to push back gently on the question itself. A 15-year is not better than a 30-year. It is a different tradeoff, and the thread so far has mostly agreed with the premise rather than tested it. Here is the case nobody made for you. The 15-year's real cost is not interest. It is that it converts flexible cash into a mandatory obligation. On a 30-year you can choose to pay extra. On a 15-year the bank chooses for you, every single month, including the month you lose your job. That is the entire difference, and it matters more than the rate gap. Speaking of the gap, I checked it today rather than guessing. As of early August 2026, Freddie Mac has the 30-year fixed averaging 6.69 percent and the 15-year at 6.01 percent, a discount of about two thirds of a point. On a $350,000 loan that is roughly $2,955 a month versus about $2,256. A required payment about 31 percent higher, permanently. Liquidity has value, and mortgage math routinely prices it at zero. You cannot eat home equity. And the usual rebuttal, "I will just open a HELOC if I need it," fails at exactly the wrong moment, because lenders freeze credit lines when borrowers lose income and when values fall, the two situations you would be opening one for. A HELOC is a fair-weather instrument. Opportunity cost is the other half. Money locked into a 6.01 percent mortgage earns a guaranteed 6.01 percent, which is genuinely good. But it is not liquid. If you do not yet have a real emergency fund, or you are leaving an employer retirement match unclaimed, or you carry anything at a higher rate, those beat the mortgage every time. So here is the synthesis that beats both camps. Take the 30-year. Then voluntarily pay it like a 15-year. On that same $350,000, paying the 30-year at the 15-year's payment retires it in about 16 years and about 2 months, and it costs roughly $224,000 in interest instead of the $462,000 you would pay on the straight 30-year. A true 15-year would have cost about $182,000. So you capture roughly 85 percent of the savings, and the roughly $42,000 difference is what the flexibility costs you. That is the honest price tag. Here is what it buys. In a bad month you drop back to the required payment, nobody calls, nothing defaults, nothing hits your credit. The 15-year does not sell that option at any price. Two footnotes worth having. If you prepay heavily for a few years and later want the lower payment locked in, ask your servicer about a recast. Most conventional servicers will re-amortize the remaining balance over the remaining term for a flat fee, usually a few hundred dollars, with a minimum lump sum in the five to ten thousand range and a limit of once a year. It is an escape hatch the 15-year does not have. On biweekly payment plans: they work, but not for the reason they are sold. Half your payment every two weeks is 26 half payments, which is 13 full payments a year instead of 12. That is the entire trick. Any third-party service charging a setup fee and a monthly fee for this is selling you something you can do yourself for free by dividing your payment by twelve and adding that to principal. And the fair objection to my own advice: it only works if you actually make the extra payments. If you know you will not, the 15-year's rigidity is a feature, not a bug. Be candid about which person you are. I am a real estate professional in Los Angeles and the South Bay, so Portland is outside my lane. Glad to connect you with a strong Oregon agent and a lender from my network. My name is Zoltan Peresztegi, and good luck with it. Zoltan


