Answers by Loodmy Jacques

Talk to a local realtor and ask them to pull recent sales data for your neighborhood. Look at how long homes are sitting on the market and whether they're selling at, above, or below asking price. If houses are moving fast and getting multiple offers, it's a seller's market and now's a good time. If homes are sitting for months and selling for less than asking, it's a buyer's market and you might want to wait if you can. But honestly, trying to time the market perfectly is tough. If you need to sell for personal reasons, just price it right and go. Waiting for the "perfect" market can backfire.

55+ communities can be great for social connection and single-level living, but they do have trade-offs. HOA fees can be high, sometimes covering clubhouse, pool, lawn care, and activities. Make sure you can afford those fees long-term, especially if they increase. Resale can be trickier because you're limited to buyers 55+, which shrinks your pool. In a hot market it's fine, but in a slow market it takes longer to sell. Your kids will inherit that same restriction unless they sell right away. A regular condo gives you more flexibility and potentially lower fees, but you won't get the built-in community vibe. If social connection matters to you and the fees work with your budget, the 55+ route makes sense. Just read the financials carefully and make sure the HOA is healthy before you buy.

Here’s the honest answer. You don’t need perfect savings, but you do need some plan in motion. For most first-time buyers, you’re looking at 3% to 3.5% down with programs like FHA or conventional. On top of that, there are closing costs, but many people use assistance programs or seller credits to help cover those. With zero saved right now, step one isn’t house shopping yet. It’s getting positioned. Start here: Talk to a lender and see where you stand. They can often do a soft check and tell you what you’d need. Work on a small starter fund. Even a few thousand can open doors with assistance programs. Check first-time buyer programs in your area. Some help with down payment and closing costs. You don’t need to stay stuck renting, but the move is to prepare for a few months, not rush in with nothing. Most people who buy started exactly where you are. They just took the first step and built from there.

If your name's not on the title, legally he's right that you don't automatically get anything from the sale. But that doesn't mean you're out of luck. You might have a claim for the money you put in, but you'd need to prove it (bank statements, Venmo records, texts about splitting costs) and probably take him to small claims court or get a lawyer involved. This is called an "unjust enrichment" claim. It's messy and not guaranteed, but it's your best shot. Document everything you paid and talk to a lawyer ASAP before he sells.

Ask how many first-time buyers they've worked with recently and if they can walk you through the process step by step before you even start looking. A good agent will explain pre-approval, offer strategy, inspections, and closing without making you feel dumb for asking questions. Also ask if they're pushy about timelines or if they're okay letting you take your time. Red flag if they dodge questions or talk over you. You want someone who listens and doesn't rush you into offers just to close a deal.

Talk to an agent first before you do anything. A good agent will walk through and tell you exactly what's worth fixing and what's not. You might think the bathroom needs a full remodel when really just fresh paint and new hardware would do the trick. Agents know your market and what buyers actually care about, so you won't waste money on stuff that doesn't move the needle. Austin's hot, so you might be able to sell as-is depending on your neighborhood and price point. But if small updates could get you $20K more, your agent will know. Interview a couple agents, get their take, then decide what to tackle. And skip the DIY if you're not handy. Bad DIY work actually hurts value more than leaving things alone.

Sell before you retire if you need a mortgage for the townhouse. Lenders want to see steady income, and qualifying on just retirement savings or Social Security is way harder and often means higher rates. If you're paying cash for the townhouse, then timing doesn't matter as much and you can wait. But if financing is involved, do it while you've got W-2s. You'll save yourself a ton of hassle and probably get better loan terms.

Power wash the siding, trim the landscaping, add fresh mulch, and paint the front door a bold or classic color. That's your cheapest, highest-impact combo. If the door itself is beat up, replace it. New light fixtures and updated house numbers help too. Skip new siding unless it's damaged. Clean and well-maintained beats expensive every time, and you'll spend way less while still making a strong first impression in photos.

Ask your agent to break it down by impact. Which items will actually affect your sale price or time on market, and which are just polish? Paint and carpet replacement in high-traffic areas usually pay off if they're truly worn. Staging can help if your house shows poorly empty, but it's not always necessary. Push back on anything that feels like overkill for your neighborhood or price point. A good agent will explain the ROI on each suggestion, not just hand you a generic checklist. If they can't justify why something's needed, skip it.

You don’t need to do everything on that list. You need to do the things that change how buyers feel the moment they walk in. Here’s how I look at it with my own listings. If something makes a buyer think “I have work to do,” fix it. That’s where deals get weaker. Paint and flooring usually fall into this because they impact the entire home. If something is nice but doesn’t change the feeling, it’s optional. Full staging, for example, depends on the house. Vacant homes benefit a lot. Lived-in homes sometimes just need decluttering and a light touch. Think in layers. First, clean and declutter. Non-negotiable. Second, remove anything that feels dated or worn. Third, only then consider upgrades or staging if it actually adds value. Your goal isn’t to make it perfect. It’s to make it feel easy for a buyer to say yes. If you want, you can push your agent a bit and ask this directly: “If I don’t do this item, how does it affect price or time on market?” That’s where you’ll see what actually matters and what doesn’t.

Start now. Get pre-approved in the next few weeks so you know your budget and can move fast when you find something. House hunting can take a month or six depending on your market and how picky you are. Once you're under contract, closing usually takes 30-45 days. Seven months is plenty of time, but don't wait. Markets move fast and you don't want to be scrambling or stuck renewing because you started too late.

It depends on whether you're selling to investors or owner-occupants. If you market it to investors, having good tenants in place with an active lease is actually a selling point - instant rental income. You can sell it tenanted and close without disrupting anyone. But if you want top dollar from owner-occupants who'll live there themselves, you'll get more interest and better offers with it vacant. Buyers struggle to picture themselves in an occupied home, and showings are a hassle for everyone. Plus some won't even look at tenant-occupied properties. If you can afford to wait six months, let the lease expire, get it cleaned up and ready to show, then list it. You'll likely sell faster and for more. If you need out now, price it for investors and disclose the lease terms upfront. Just know that pool is smaller and offers will be lower.

Visit the house multiple times at different times of day and in different weather if you can. Drive by at night, on weekends, during rush hour. Talk to the neighbors and straight-up ask them what they don't like about living there. Check flood maps if there's water nearby. Look at Google Earth for stuff you might miss in person like drainage issues or nearby industrial areas. For bugs specifically, yeah, creeks and standing water are mosquito magnets. You can't always predict that in fall. Ask the seller directly if they have pest issues. Most won't lie outright if you ask point-blank. But here's the truth: no house is perfect. There's always something. You can do your homework and catch most of the big stuff, but you'll never know everything until you live there. Focus on dealbreakers you can control and accept that some stuff you just won't see coming.

There's no magic number, but selling under two years usually means you'll lose money or barely break even after closing costs, realtor fees, and whatever you've put into the place. You also won't get the capital gains tax break unless you've been there at least two years. But look, if you have to move for work, you have to move. Talk to a local realtor and figure out what you'd actually walk away with after everything. Sometimes taking a small loss now beats the headache of being a long-distance landlord. You could rent it out if the numbers work and hire a property manager, but that cuts into any profit and adds a whole layer of stress you might not want. Only go that route if you think the market will be way better in a year or two. Otherwise, just sell and move on. Bad timing happens.

Ask them to walk you through their pricing strategy with actual data. What are those comps they're looking at? Are they truly comparable or are they cherry-picking lower sales? How long did similar homes sit on the market at different price points? A good agent should be able to justify their number with real evidence, not just "trust me." If they're pricing low to generate buzz and multiple offers, that can work in hot markets, but it's risky. You could end up with one lowball offer and no backup plan. If you're not comfortable with that strategy, say so. Get a second opinion. Interview another agent, get their pricing recommendation, and see if it lines up. If two agents are telling you the same thing and you're the outlier, maybe your expectations are off. But if your agent's number feels way out of line and they can't back it up, find someone else. Pricing is too important to ignore your gut on.

Sell as-is. Partially updated homes actually do fine because buyers see you've taken care of the rest and the kitchen is just one project left. Plus, kitchens are personal. Some buyers would rather pick their own finishes than pay extra for yours. If you finish it now, you'll spend months and thousands of dollars you might not get back, especially if you have to move for work. Price it accounting for the outdated kitchen, mention in the listing that it's ready for someone to make it their own, and move on. You'll find buyers who see it as an opportunity, not a dealbreaker.

Convert it back to a bedroom. Bedroom count is one of the first filters buyers use online. A 4 bedroom will get more views and more showings than a 3 bedroom with an office. You don’t have to remove the function. Just make sure it qualifies as a bedroom again. Closet, doors, and it looks like a bedroom on paper. You can still stage it as an office if you want. That way you get the best of both. It shows as a 4 bedroom, but buyers can still see the flexibility.

You should not feel in the dark. That’s not a good sign. At a minimum, you should be getting weekly updates. That includes showing activity, buyer feedback, online views, and what the market is doing around your home. If there are active showings, you should also hear feedback within a day or two. A simple standard I set is this. No news is still news. You should never be wondering what’s going on. Have a direct conversation and set expectations. Ask for a quick weekly call or update, plus immediate feedback after showings. Most agents will adjust once you’re clear. Communication is a big part of the job. It’s not just about putting the home on the market, it’s about guiding you through it the entire time.

Go with paint and updated lighting first. That early 2000s look usually comes from color and fixtures more than anything else. Fresh, light neutral paint makes the home feel clean, bigger, and move in ready right away. Pair that with simple, modern light fixtures and you’ve already changed the way the home shows without spending a lot. Quartz countertops can help, but only if the rest of the kitchen supports it. If the cabinets and overall look still feel dated, buyers won’t see it as a full upgrade. It ends up feeling like something they still need to finish, and that works against you. Buyers today are paying attention to how easy the home feels the moment they walk in. Clean, bright, and no immediate projects. Paint and lighting hit that directly, and they usually give you the strongest return for the money.

It usually makes sense to sell once you have enough equity to cover selling costs and still walk away with something meaningful for your next down payment. As a rule of thumb, plan for about 7 to 9% of the sale price going to commissions and closing costs. After that, you want enough left to put yourself in a comfortable position on the next home. Most people hit that point around 3 to 5 years, but it really depends on how much your home has appreciated and the extra payments you’ve made. If values have gone up, you may already be there. If not, it can feel tight. A simple way to look at it is this. If you can sell, cover your costs, and still move into your next home without stretching yourself, you’re ready. If not, it may make sense to wait a bit longer or adjust the plan.

It comes down to whether it works as an investment, not just how much you like the home. Start with the numbers. If rent comfortably covers your mortgage, taxes, insurance, maintenance, and management, then it can make sense to keep it. If not, you’re likely feeding it every month and hoping appreciation makes up for it. Then think about distance and flexibility. Out of state rentals usually need a property manager, and keeping the home ties up your equity. Selling gives you a clean break and cash to use for your next move. If it performs well on paper and fits your lifestyle, keep it. If not, selling is usually the simpler move.

There’s no perfect timeline, but around 3 to 5 years is when it usually starts to make sense. What matters is your equity. You want enough to cover selling costs, usually around 7 to 9 percent, and still have something left for your next down payment. That depends on how much your home has appreciated plus the payments you’ve made. At the same time, if you’re outgrowing the home, there’s a real cost to staying just to hit a number. Best move is to run the numbers on what you’d net today. If it puts you in a solid position for the next home, you’re ready. If not, give it a little more time.

Hire the professional. This is one place I would not try to save. Your photos are the first showing. Most buyers decide whether to even step inside based on what they see online. Even if your home looks great in person, average photos can make it feel smaller, darker, or just easy to scroll past. Professional photos bring the right lighting, angles, and editing. They make the space feel clean, bright, and inviting, which is exactly what drives more showings. When sellers take their own photos, the downside is simple. Fewer clicks, fewer showings, and usually weaker offers. You’re not just saving money, you’re risking how the home is perceived from the start.

Talk to an agent earlier than you think. You don’t need to be 100 percent ready, and it doesn’t cost you anything to have the conversation. A good agent helps you get clear on your budget, connects you with a lender, and shows you what’s realistic in your price range. That way, when you are ready, you’re not starting from zero or making rushed decisions. Waiting until the last minute usually leads to more stress and missed opportunities. Starting a few months early just puts you in control of the process.

Skip the full remodel and paint the cabinets. A renovation this close to selling usually doesn’t give you the return, and it can slow you down. If the layout works, you’re already ahead. Painted cabinets, new hardware, and a few small updates like lighting or a faucet can take the kitchen from dated to move in ready. Buyers don’t need brand new. They just don’t want it to feel old the moment they walk in.

Finish it, but keep it simple and functional. In the Midwest, a finished basement is not really a bonus anymore, it’s something buyers expect, especially if the ceiling height is good like yours. An unfinished basement doesn’t give you full credit for the square footage. Buyers see it as space they’ll have to spend money on later, and they mentally discount your price because of it. A clean, finished rec room changes that conversation. Now it feels like usable living space the day they move in. You don’t need to go overboard. Focus on a nice open layout, good lighting, neutral finishes, and at least a half bath if it’s already plumbed. That’s what makes it feel complete. If you try to over customize it, you risk spending more than you get back. Most buyers are not looking for a blank canvas. They want something done already so they can enjoy it right away. A finished basement won’t always return dollar for dollar on paper, but it usually helps you sell faster and closer to your asking price, which is where the real value shows up.

You won’t beat cash by just offering more. You win by reducing risk. Get fully underwritten, not just pre-approved, and use a lender who can close fast. Keep contingencies tight, consider an appraisal gap, and increase your deposit to show you’re serious. FHA can be tougher in a hot market, so if you can go conventional, it helps. The goal is simple. Make your offer feel as close to cash as possible.

Yes, repaint. Buyers struggle to see past bold colors and it absolutely affects offers. Neutral walls let them picture their own stuff and make rooms feel bigger and brighter. It's one of the cheapest, highest-return updates you can do before listing.

The absolute minimum depends on the loan, but here’s the real breakdown. FHA can go as low as 580 with 3.5% down. Some lenders may even allow lower, but that’s not common. Conventional loans usually start around 620. That said, approval is just step one. The higher your score, the better your rate and monthly payment. Big difference between getting approved at 580 vs 680. If you’re close, don’t stress about the hard inquiry. A good lender can do a soft pull first and tell you exactly where you stand and what to fix. Focus less on the minimum and more on getting your score into the strongest position possible before you apply.

Most people try to pick between FHA and conventional like one is better across the board, but it really comes down to what works best for your situation. FHA is usually the easier entry point. Lower credit, lower down payment, more flexibility. It’s a great way to get in sooner. The tradeoff is the mortgage insurance stays, and the loan can feel a bit heavier over time. Conventional is a little tougher to qualify for, but if you can get there, it tends to be a stronger overall setup. Lower long term costs, fewer restrictions, and in some cases, a more attractive offer to a seller. The mistake is choosing based on the loan alone. You want the option that gets you into the home without stretching you too thin every month. Best move is to run both scenarios and see which one actually feels better on paper and in real life.

You don’t need 20 percent down to buy a home, and that’s where a lot of these programs come in. There are grants and assistance programs that can help cover part of your down payment or closing costs. Some don’t need to be paid back, others are structured as low or deferred loans. It really depends on your income, where you’re buying, and the price range. The hard part is they’re not easy to find on your own. A lot of them are tied to specific lenders or local programs, so you won’t see everything just by searching online. The best step is to connect with a lender who regularly works with first-time buyers and ask them to check all available options for you. That’s usually when people realize they can get in much sooner than they thought.

Buying a fixer-upper can be a smart move, but only if you’re clear on what you’re getting into. The upside is real. You can get into a better neighborhood at a lower price and build equity by improving the home. That’s how a lot of people get ahead early. The risk is underestimating the work. Cosmetic updates like floors and paint are manageable. Kitchens can be okay if you budget right. But once you get into electrical, plumbing, or structural issues, costs and timelines can get out of control fast. There are loans designed for this, like renovation loans that let you roll the cost of repairs into your mortgage. They help, but they come with more steps and stricter requirements. It really comes down to this. If the home needs mostly cosmetic work and you have some buffer in your budget, it can be a great entry point. If it needs major systems or you’re stretching financially just to get in, it can turn stressful quickly.

Replace them with LVP. Worn carpet, especially with pet wear, is a huge turnoff and buyers will fixate on it. LVP is durable, looks modern, appeals to families with kids and pets, and photographs way better than old carpet. You'll likely get your money back and then some in a faster sale and better offers.

Power wash the siding, trim the landscaping, add fresh mulch, and paint the front door. That's your best bang for the buck. Replacing siding is expensive and you won't get it back unless it's actually damaged. Clean and tidy beats brand new every time, and you'll spend a fraction of the cost.

It depends on your market and price point, but most buyers say they want to customize, then they actually buy the move-in ready house. Outdated finishes make buyers mentally deduct way more than it would cost you to fix. Do the basics like fresh paint, updated light fixtures, and clean modern hardware. You don't need a full remodel, just get it out of 2005.

Honestly, it depends on your market and price point, but here's what I've seen play out time and again: If your carpets are truly dated or stained, like they make you cringe when you walk in, yeah, I'd replace them. Buyers are emotional. They'll lowball you over ugly carpet even if everything else is pristine. And trust me, they won't give you full credit for a flooring allowance. They'll either ask for more money off than it would've cost you to do it, or they'll just move on to the next house. That said, if the carpets are just "older" but clean and neutral, you might be fine leaving them. Some buyers actually prefer carpet in bedrooms, especially families with young kids. I've had clients who specifically wanted it for noise reduction and comfort. Florida's a mixed bag on this. Tile everywhere can feel cold to some people, even in a warm climate. Here's my rule of thumb: if you're selling under $400K, a flooring allowance can work, but make it clear in the listing. Over that, buyers expect move-in ready, and carpet that "shows wear" will hurt you at showings. They'll fixate on it during walkthroughs, and suddenly your beautiful kitchen doesn't matter anymore. If you do replace, LVP is smart. It's durable, holds up in Florida's humidity, and appeals to a wide range of buyers. Just don't go too cheap or too trendy with the color. Neutral, wood-look tones in a mid-range product are your safest bet. I've seen people go with gray-wash oak or a warm walnut tone and it photographs beautifully. Bottom line? If it's in your budget and the carpet genuinely looks tired, do the work now. You'll likely net more and sell faster. If money's tight, test the market as-is, but be ready to negotiate hard on price. Just know that every buyer who walks through will mentally be deducting that flooring cost, and then some.

This is tricky, but family and business rarely mix well, especially when there's this much money on the line. Your house is probably your biggest asset. Using someone brand new is a huge risk. She doesn't have the experience to price it right or negotiate multiple offers. A bad listing can cost you tens of thousands. Here's what I'd do. Frame it around your needs, not her lack of experience: "We really appreciate you thinking of us. But we've already been talking to someone who specializes in our neighborhood and has tons of comps for our exact area." Or: "We're in a tight spot financially and need every dollar we can get. I'd feel terrible putting that pressure on you when you're just starting out." You could let her help stage or assist your actual agent if you want to keep the peace. Whatever you do, don't cave to avoid awkwardness. I've watched people lose serious money using a friend or relative who wasn't ready. One uncomfortable conversation beats a lowball offer any day.

They're not scams, but you'll get lowballed hard. These are investors who need to buy cheap enough to flip or rent for profit. You might get 60-70 cents on the dollar, sometimes worse. The "fast and easy" part is real, but you're paying a huge premium for convenience. When it makes sense: you're in a serious bind, need to sell immediately, can't afford repairs, or dealing with foreclosure or divorce. But if you have any wiggle room, list it with a realtor as-is. Plenty of buyers want fixer-uppers. You'll get more money even after paying commission. If you explore it, get multiple cash offers and compare. Never take the first one. And don't sign anything without reading it carefully. Bottom line: it's not a scam, but it's also not charity. They're buying low to sell high. Just know what you're giving up.

You can still sell it, but it's gonna complicate things and cost you money. Here's the deal. Most buyers get inspections, and unpermitted work will get spotted. When that happens, buyers either walk or demand a big price cut. Lenders hate unpermitted work too, so you might only get cash buyers, which means less money. The city won't automatically come after you for selling. But if it comes up during inspections or the buyer reports it, it can turn into a mess. Worst case, you get permits after the fact (expensive) or remove the work if it doesn't meet code. Your options: Sell as-is and disclose the unpermitted work upfront. Some buyers won't care, especially investors. You'll just get less money. Or get permits retroactively before you list. It's a hassle and costs money, but makes the house easier to sell at a better price. Don't hide it. That's how you get sued later. Disclose everything and let the buyer decide.

This one's all about the numbers. Foundation issues scare buyers. Lenders won't touch it, so you're looking at cash buyers only, which means deep discounts. Maybe 20-30% less than market value. But foundation work is expensive and unpredictable. A $30K estimate can balloon to $60K. And even after you fix it, buyers will still be nervous. You won't get full credit for the work. Run the math. Get quotes for the repair. Then ask a local realtor what your house would sell for as-is versus fixed. If the spread is less than what you'd spend on repairs, sell as-is. The historical value might attract specific buyers who'll pay up despite the issues. But if it's just "old," that's adding risk, not value. My take? Unless the ROI is crystal clear and you have cash for overruns, list it as-is. Price it right, disclose everything, and you'll find a buyer.

Why are you thinking about doing this? That's important because there might be better ways to handle it. If it's for estate planning so she inherits easily, just put it in your will or set up a transfer-on-death deed. Way cleaner and you keep full control. If you add her to the title now, here's what happens: you lose full control of your house. She'd have to agree to sell or refinance. If she gets sued, divorces, or has creditor problems, your house could be at risk. And you might trigger gift tax issues depending on your state. Plus, she loses the tax benefit. If she inherits it later, she gets a stepped-up basis and pays way less in capital gains if she sells. If you add her now, she's stuck with your original purchase price for tax purposes. Talk to an estate attorney before you do anything. This seems simple but it can create a mess.

The stuff that makes the biggest impact is cheap and fast: Power wash everything. Siding, driveway, walkways. $150 to rent or $300-500 to hire out. Instant facelift. Paint the front door. Bold color or classic black. One afternoon, under $100. Buyers fixate on it in photos. Clean up landscaping. Trim overgrown stuff, pull weeds, add fresh mulch, plant cheap colorful flowers near the entrance. $200-300 total. New house numbers and mailbox if yours are beat up. Under $100. Update the porch light if it's old or rusty. $50-100. Touch up peeling paint around windows or trim. Just fix what's obvious. Skip expensive stuff like new siding or a roof unless it's falling apart. Clean, tidy, and welcoming beats fancy every time.

You definitely need a lawyer who specializes in mineral rights and oil/gas issues to sort this out, because if those wells are active and you own the rights, you might be owed money. Don't sell until you get this cleared up, because it could be worth a lot more than you think.

The new NAR rules require agents to have a written agreement before showing properties, but they can use a simple one-time showing agreement just for that open house, not a full buyer representation contract. If they're pressuring you to sign a long-term exclusive agreement just to walk through, that's pushy and you can say no or find another agent.

You can do it, but know that not having a bathtub can turn off buyers with young kids, which might shrink your buyer pool a bit when you sell. If it's your forever home or you need the accessibility, go for it, just be aware of the trade-off.

You can replace it with a walk-in shower, no problem. It's your home and if you need the accessibility, do it. Just know that when you sell, not having a bathtub in a one-bathroom house can turn off buyers with young kids, which might shrink your buyer pool a bit. But if this is about safety and aging in place, that matters way more than resale. Go for it.

Depends if they're leased or financed. If you financed them (took out a loan), you'll probably have to pay off the loan at closing from your proceeds unless the buyer agrees to assume it, which is rare. If they're leased, the buyer has to agree to take over the lease. A lot of buyers don't want that monthly payment, so it can kill deals or force you to buy out the lease yourself. Check your contract and see what your options are. Some companies let you pay it off early, others make it difficult. If the buyer won't assume the loan or lease, you're stuck paying it off to sell. This is a common problem with solar - it complicates sales. Talk to your solar company and your realtor about the best way to handle it.

Staging and neutral paint help, yeah. Purple walls turn people off because they can't picture their stuff there. Clutter makes rooms look smaller and distracts buyers from the actual house. In a hot market, you might sell anyway, but you'll still get more money and sell faster if the house shows well. Buyers are emotional - even in a seller's market, they'll lowball you or move on if your house feels like too much work compared to the competition. Your agent's not trying to make her job easier. She's trying to get you the most money. Staging and paint are some of the cheapest, highest-return things you can do. If you don't want to deal with it, fine, but price it lower to account for it. Just know you're leaving money on the table.

The agent can recommend a price based on comps and market data, but they can't force you to agree. You and your ex have to decide together since you both own it. If you can't agree, you might need to go back to your lawyer or mediator. Some divorce decrees spell out how to handle this - like requiring you to list at the average of two appraisals or giving one person the authority to make the call. You could also compromise. List it at his price for 30 days, and if it doesn't sell, drop it to yours. That way he gets his shot and you get movement. But if he's being completely unreasonable and blocking the sale, your lawyer can go back to court and ask the judge to intervene. The court can order a specific price or appoint someone to handle the sale. Don't let this drag out. The longer it sits unsold, the worse it gets for both of you.

You need to deal with it now. If the fence is on your property and you don't fix it, it complicates the sale. The survey will show it's over the line, and buyers will either walk or demand you fix it before closing. Talk to your neighbor and show them a survey proving the fence is on your side. Ask them to move it. If they refuse, you might need to get a lawyer involved or have it moved yourself, which sucks but saves the headache later. Don't pass this problem to the buyer. It'll kill your deal or cost you way more in price cuts than just handling it now.

Yes, they absolutely can take you to court and they can win. HOAs have real legal power because you agreed to their rules when you bought the house. If you ignore them, they can fine you, put a lien on your property, or even force you to tear down the deck at your own expense. Your neighbor might've gotten lucky or they're still building a case. Don't gamble on this one.

Get a survey to know for sure where the property line is. If the fence is on your property, it's technically yours to maintain. If it's directly on the line, you'd typically share the responsibility, but that requires both of you agreeing to split the cost. If they're not willing to chip in, you might need to decide if it's worth fixing on your own to solve the dog issue.