Answers by Phong Tran

You don’t typically have to formally disclose a neighboring Airbnb unless it rises to a known material nuisance (e.g., repeated noise complaints, police calls, documented disturbances), but you do have a duty not to mislead—so if directly asked, you can’t hide it; the real strategy here is damage control: time showings and open houses during quieter periods (weekday mornings), have your agent notify the neighbor/host ahead of key showing windows, and position your home to outshine the issue (price, condition, staging, incentives); if the problem is severe and documented, talk to your agent about a proactive disclosure with context to control the narrative rather than letting buyers discover it negatively, and consider pulling any local ordinances or HOA rules on short-term rentals to reassure buyers—bottom line, you’re not automatically stuck, but you need to be strategic and transparent when it matters.

A “soft launch” (or coming soon) is when your home is marketed before it’s fully available for showings—usually to build awareness and demand—but it’s a double-edged sword: it can work in hot markets by creating anticipation and a strong first weekend, but a two-week no-showing period is often too long and can backfire by losing momentum or frustrating serious buyers; your concern is valid too—some agents use this time to line up buyers internally, which may limit exposure; the key is making sure your home hits the open market (MLS) quickly with full access, because maximum exposure drives the best offers, so if you do a soft launch, keep it short (a few days), ensure it’s still widely marketed, and don’t restrict showings longer than necessary.

Price reductions don’t automatically make you look “desperate”—they’re actually a normal (and often necessary) part of the selling process—but how and when you reduce matters; a well-timed, strategic price adjustment (especially early, within the first couple weeks) can attract fresh attention and even spark competition, while multiple small or late reductions can signal to buyers that something’s wrong and invite lowball offers; the reality is buyers are watching days on market and price trends closely, so it’s better to price correctly upfront or make one strong, decisive adjustment than to “chase the market” with repeated drops.

Online home value estimates (like AVMs) are a helpful starting point, but they often hurt sellers when taken as exact truth—they use broad data and can’t fully account for condition, upgrades, layout, or micro-location factors, so they’re frequently off (sometimes by a lot); this leads many sellers to anchor to an inflated number, overprice, sit on the market, and then take a lower offer after price reductions, which is worse than pricing correctly from the start; the best approach is to treat these estimates as a rough range and rely on a local agent’s comparative market analysis (CMA) and current buyer demand to dial in a realistic, competitive price.

Yes—“green-washing” is absolutely a thing in real estate, and your agent is partly right: upgrades like solar and a high-end heat pump don’t always show up cleanly in comps because appraisers rely on recent sales that may not have similar features, but that doesn’t mean you’re out the $40k; it just means the value shows up differently—more in marketability and buyer demand than strict price-per-square-foot. The key is positioning: document actual utility savings (12-month bills), highlight ownership vs. leased solar, and market directly to the right buyers (eco-conscious, relocation buyers from high-cost energy states, and higher-income buyers who value efficiency); also make sure your agent lists these features in the MLS “green/energy” fields so appraisers can at least attempt adjustments, and consider pricing slightly above comps with strong marketing rather than expecting a dollar-for-dollar return—homes with near-zero utility costs do sell at a premium, but only when the right buyers clearly understand the long-term savings.

It’s not automatically a fair trade—just because a buyer is unrepresented doesn’t mean they’re entitled to a 2.5% discount; that commission was never guaranteed to them, and you’re actually taking on more risk and work dealing with a DIY buyer. The real issue is protection: without an agent on their side, you (and your agent) end up guiding the process more, which can create liability if something goes wrong. The smart move is to keep your price based on market value, not their representation status, and if you do consider a concession, tie it to clean terms (as-is, fewer contingencies, quick close). To protect yourself, require they use a standard purchase agreement, strongly encourage (or require) they hire a real estate attorney, and have your agent/documentation handle everything strictly by the book—no shortcuts. Bottom line: you can work with them, but don’t “pay” them for not having an agent unless you’re getting something meaningful in return.

Short answer: you likely won’t get the full $70k back in resale, but it can still be worth it depending on your market and how you use it; screened-in porches typically return ~50–70% of cost, and more importantly they boost appeal and help homes sell faster—especially in climates like the Pacific Northwest where covered outdoor space is a big plus. The risk in your case is you’re replacing an open deck (which some buyers prefer), so you want to avoid over-improving for your neighborhood; the best move is to design it as a flexible space (e.g., removable panels, high-end finishes, seamless indoor-outdoor flow) so it feels like an upgrade, not a tradeoff. Bottom line: do it if you’ll enjoy it for a few years, but don’t expect a dollar-for-dollar return—think lifestyle first, resale second.

Selling costs do feel high, but here’s the simple breakdown so you can see where it goes: the biggest chunk is agent commission (typically ~5–6%, split between listing and buyer’s agent, though this is negotiable), then you have closing costs (~1–3%) which include escrow/title fees, transfer taxes (varies by area), and recording fees; next are prep costs (staging, cleaning, minor repairs, landscaping) which can range widely but often run $2k–$10k+ depending on condition; and finally optional costs like seller concessions or rate buydowns if you offer them to attract buyers. On a $500k sale, it’s common to net 7–10% total costs all-in, but that can be optimized—commissions can be negotiated, prep can be strategic (not overdone), and strong pricing/marketing can reduce the need for concessions.

An HOA (Homeowners Association) is an organization that manages and maintains a neighborhood or community, and if you buy a home within an HOA, membership is mandatory—you cannot opt out because it’s tied to the property’s deed. HOA fees go toward shared expenses like maintenance of common areas (landscaping, parks, private roads), amenities (pools, gyms, clubhouses), exterior upkeep in some communities, and sometimes utilities like water or trash; they also fund insurance for shared spaces and a reserve for future repairs. Fees vary widely depending on what’s included, which is why some seem high, but in return the HOA enforces rules to maintain property values and community standards, which can be a benefit or a downside depending on your preferences.

To get a land and construction mortgage (often called a construction-to-permanent loan), lenders typically require strong credit (usually 680+), a higher down payment (often 20–30%), and stable income with low debt-to-income ratio (generally under 43–45%). You’ll also need detailed building plans, a signed contract with a licensed builder, a realistic construction timeline, and a project budget that the lender will review and approve. The property must be buildable (zoning, utilities, access), and the lender will usually order an appraisal based on the future completed value of the home. Cash reserves are often required to cover unexpected costs, and funds are released in stages (draws) as construction progresses.

Great opportunity—getting ahead of the market can be a big win. Here’s what to do: Talk to a lender ASAP → get pre-approved (not just pre-qualified) so you know your exact budget Ask about first-time buyer programs (lower down payment, possible grants/credits) Since it’s off-market, you may be able to negotiate price/terms more easily Be ready for a quick appraisal + inspection once under contract If it’s a strong deal, consider a conventional loan; if funds are tight, look at FHA or low-down options If you want, I can connect you with solid lenders and help structure the offer before it hits the market 👍

Since the home is off-market, the first step is to get pre-approved so the seller knows you can buy. As a first-time buyer, your best loan options are FHA (low down payment, flexible credit), conventional (if your credit is strong), or VA/USDA (if you qualify for 0% down). If the home needs major work, a renovation loan could work. Talk to a lender before making an offer so you know what you can afford and how to structure the deal with your family friend.

Leased solar panels usually mean the buyer must assume the lease, but in today’s market—especially in mine—sellers often pay off the panels at closing since most buyers don’t want to take over the lease; the monthly payment does count against your debt-to-income for a new mortgage, and every market is different, so consult your agent about the best approach where you live.

Buying with a friend can work—but you need a clear exit plan upfront: Ownership structure matters: Joint tenancy vs tenants in common (who owns what %) Have a written agreement (non-negotiable): What happens if one wants out Buyout terms (how value is determined) How expenses are split If one moves out: They can sell their share to the other person Or you both sell the home and split proceeds If someone gets a partner: Decide if the partner can move in + how costs change Worst case (no agreement): Can lead to legal action (forced sale) Cleanest setup: agree now on the “breakup plan” before you buy 👍

Yes—you can typically borrow against your current home using a HELOC or cash-out refinance and use those funds for a down payment on your next property. However, lenders will closely evaluate your debt-to-income ratio and may count the new payment (and sometimes the rental income if you convert the home to a rental), so approval isn’t automatic. The key risks are that you’re increasing leverage on both properties and your current home will likely need enough equity (often 15–25%+ remaining after borrowing). It can work strategically for a “move-up + keep-as-rental” plan, but it only makes sense if the rental cash flow comfortably covers the new debt and you’re prepared for vacancy/maintenance risk.

List about 5–6 months before your move; most homes take 30–60 days to go pending and another 30–45 days to close, so you’ll land in that 2–3 month window before you need to be out—then control timing by negotiating a rent-back (30–60 days) or a longer closing to line everything up 👍

Don’t worry about buzzwords—focus on direct questions: ask “what are the major defects or safety issues?”, “what’s near end of life (roof, HVAC, water heater)?”, “what would you fix if this was your house?”, “any signs of water intrusion, mold, or drainage issues?”, “anything likely to be expensive in the next 1–3 years?”, and “any red flags that would make you walk away?”—also attend the inspection if you can, ask for photos and plain-English explanations, and push for clear severity and timelines so nothing stays vague .

For a ~30-year-old home, expect some wear—focus on big-ticket items like the roof (age, leaks, missing shingles), HVAC (age, condition, service history), plumbing (leaks, old piping, water pressure), electrical (panel, outdated wiring, safety issues), foundation/structure (cracks, settling), and water issues (drainage, crawlspace, attic, mold); yes, go to the inspection—walk it with the inspector, ask questions in real time, and have them show you main shutoffs, panel, and filters; remember no house is perfect, focus on safety and expensive repairs, not cosmetic issues, and use the detailed report afterward to negotiate.

Don’t panic over 38 minor issues—most are cosmetic or easy fixes like a window latch; focus on major systems and safety such as the air conditioner, electrical, plumbing, roof, and foundation; talk to your agent about which items are deal breakers vs. manageable, and use the report to negotiate repairs or credits with the seller rather than walking away over small stuff; moving forward is fine as long as the big-ticket items are addressed and you have a clear plan for the minor ones

It’s not an automatic deal breaker, but your parents aren’t wrong either—being on a busy road usually means noise, safety concerns (especially with kids/pets), and weaker resale appeal. The biggest thing to understand is that you’ll likely get a discount when you buy, but you’ll also sell at a discount later, and your buyer pool will be smaller. That said, some people are totally fine with it if the house checks enough boxes—especially if there’s good fencing, a setback from the road, or limited through-traffic at night. My advice: visit the home at different times of day (rush hour vs evening), stand outside and inside to gauge noise, and think honestly about your lifestyle in 3–5 years. If everything else is perfect, it can still be a solid buy—but only if you go in knowing resale will be a little tougher and price it accordingly on the front end.

Yes, they still matter—even if you don’t have kids. School districts heavily impact resale value and buyer demand, because a large portion of future buyers will care. Homes in stronger districts tend to sell faster and hold value better, especially in slower markets. That said, you don’t need to overpay just for schools—just avoid being in a clearly weak district if everything else is equal. Think of it less as a personal need and more as a resale strategy.

This is way beyond normal and you’re right to be concerned—what you’re describing is a serious breakdown in agent conduct, property security, and potentially unauthorized access. First, immediately document everything (photos of damage, timestamps, texts, call logs, police report) and do not allow any further access to the property without your explicit written approval. You should contact your agent’s broker (their managing broker, not just the agent) and file a formal complaint right away, and also report this to the Georgia Real Estate Commission. Review your listing agreement—most allow termination for cause, and this situation likely qualifies given negligence and failure to protect your property. Do not share lockbox codes or personal info with any third party, especially one that cannot be verified. At this point, I would strongly consider consulting a real estate attorney to formally terminate the agreement and protect yourself from liability, and potentially pursue damages for the property issues.

Home warranties aren’t a total waste, but they often disappoint—coverage is limited, claims can get denied, and service can be slow. They can make sense for older homes or if you don’t have cash for repairs, but they’re not true protection and won’t cover everything like people expect. Most experienced homeowners prefer keeping a repair fund instead, since you’ll have more control and fewer headaches.

Not a bad investment—just a different one. Condos are usually more affordable and easier to maintain, but they tend to appreciate slower than single-family homes and come with HOA dues and rules. They can still be a solid choice if the price, location, and HOA are good—just know resale may be a bit more limited compared to a house.

Look at a few key things: recent comparable sales (same area, size, condition)—if similar homes sold lower, it’s likely overpriced; days on market—if it’s sitting while others are selling, that’s a red flag; and price cuts—multiple reductions usually mean it started too high. Also compare price per square foot and overall condition—nice updates can justify a higher price, but not dramatically above comps.

You can buy on your own, but a good agent usually earns their keep—especially with pricing, negotiations, contracts, and catching issues before they cost you money. Also, in most cases the seller pays the commission, so you’re not really saving much going solo. You only skip an agent if you’re very experienced and comfortable handling risk, paperwork, and negotiations yourself.

Not always best to accept right away, but early offers are often strong. First offers can be your best, especially if priced right Look at terms, not just price (financing, contingencies, timelines) If activity is high, you can wait or set an offer deadline If showings are slow, that first offer may be your best shot Bottom line: evaluate the strength of the offer and market response, not just timing. AKA Consult your agent

Not dumb, but not always the smartest financially. If you’ll use it a lot and keep it long term, buying can make sense (equity + stability) If it’ll sit empty most of the year, renting is usually cheaper and more flexible No rental income = you’re covering all costs yourself Simple rule: buy for lifestyle, not as an “investment” unless you plan to rent it out consistently

Yes, going $50k–$100k over base price is very common with new construction because the base price is just the starting point. You’ll likely pay extra for a lot premium depending on location or view, design center upgrades which can add up fast, and post-closing items like backyard landscaping, blinds, and fencing. On top of that, there are closing costs and sometimes a SID/LID tax, which is an extra annual fee for infrastructure that can last years. Before signing, ask the builder for a true all-in price including lot, upgrades, and fees, what’s actually included versus the model home, your full monthly payment with HOA and SID/LID, and realistic costs to finish the home after closing.

Short answer: you’re not automatically forced to drop the price, but you also likely can’t keep their earnest money. Here’s how it usually plays out: Appraisal contingency: If the buyer has one (most do), they can back out due to low appraisal and get their earnest money back. Options you have: Lower price to $530k Split the gap (meet somewhere in the middle) Hold firm and risk the deal falling apart Buyer bringing cash: If they don’t have the $20k, the deal likely won’t close at $550k unless terms change. Second appraisal: Possible, but rare and not guaranteed to change anything (usually only if there were errors in the first one). Bottom line: this becomes a negotiation, not a default win for either side.

At 35 days on market, it’s not automatically a reason to fire your agent but you do want a clear data-driven plan. Ask your agent for a market analysis comparing your home to recent sales and active listings, including how pricing, condition, and interest rates might be affecting demand, and get their opinion on whether small updates like paint, flooring, or staging could make a meaningful difference. Sometimes a short pause to make minor improvements and relist with fresh photos and marketing can reset buyer interest and is not considered fishy as long as it is transparently done. If your agent cannot provide clear reasoning or actionable strategies, or if they are not adjusting advice based on market feedback, then it may be time to consider interviewing another agent, but often the issue is price and presentation more than representation.

A 3 month rent back is pretty common with new construction delays, but you need to treat it like you’re becoming a short term landlord; make sure there’s a strong written agreement with daily rent, a solid security deposit held in escrow, a strict move out date with penalties for overstaying, and clear rules on utilities, maintenance, and insurance, and confirm your policy covers it or switch temporarily if needed; the main risks are damage or the seller not leaving, but those can usually be controlled if the terms are tight and structured properly under your state rules, so it’s not something you need to walk away from, just something you need to protect yourself on.CONSULT YOUR AGENT

Yes, the “spring market” is still a thing Buyers typically ramp up from March through June, but it’s not a hard start date anymore. Activity often begins earlier, especially if rates stabilize. March is NOT too early Serious buyers are already out looking right now. Many are actually frustrated by low inventory. Low inventory = opportunity Less competition = more eyes on your home Higher chance of stronger offers (or multiple offers) You stand out instead of getting buried in April/May listings The “wait until April” advice is outdated in some markets That was more relevant when inventory patterns were predictable. Right now, supply is tight, so timing matters less than competition. The real risk isn’t listing early It’s overpricing If priced right → you’ll get activity quickly If overpriced → that’s what causes the “stale” 60-day listing, not timing Simple way to think about it Low inventory + active buyers = strong seller position High inventory (later spring) = more competition, more price pressure Bottom line: If your neighborhood truly has zero inventory, listing in March can actually give you an edge. Just make sure pricing and presentation are dialed in so you capitalize on that early demand.

Yes, it can be sold but there’s a catch A life estate means someone still has the legal right to live there That person usually must sign off or be bought out for a clean sale Financing and title can get tricky if it’s not resolved In simple terms, you want to make sure you’re actually buying full ownership, not a property with someone else’s right to live in it. If the life estate isn’t cleared, you could end up with major limitations, so have your agent and title company verify this before moving forward.

Once you’re under contract, the seller is legally obligated to perform unless they have a valid contractual reason (like a contingency they can still use). At a couple weeks from closing, most seller contingencies are usually already removed, which means backing out would likely put them in breach of contract. If they do try to walk, your options can include pursuing damages (to recover your costs like moving and deposits) or even forcing the sale through legal action depending on the situation. That said, deals can still fall apart late if something triggers it, so it’s important to understand exactly what your contract says. Bottom line: it’s not typical or easy for a seller to back out this late, but your agent and escrow/title should review things immediately so you know exactly where you stand and how protected you are.

Yes, you can buy a house while owing taxes, but it depends on how it’s set up. Lenders are mainly looking for control and consistency. If you’re on a formal payment plan with the IRS and making on-time payments, that’s usually acceptable. They’ll factor that monthly payment into your debt-to-income ratio, just like any other bill. Where it can become an issue is if there’s a tax lien, missed payments, or no structured plan in place. That raises red flags and can impact approval or loan terms. Bottom line: owing taxes doesn’t automatically disqualify you. Being on a documented payment plan and staying current is what keeps you in the game. It’s worth having a lender review your specific situation early so you know exactly where you stand.

Yes, you can absolutely buy a house with student loans. Lenders don’t care as much about the total balance as they do about your monthly payment and overall debt load. If you’re making your payments on time, that’s a positive. What they’ll look at: Your monthly student loan payment (this gets counted in your debt-to-income ratio) Your income and how comfortably you can handle all debts Your credit history and consistency Even if your payment is low (like on an income-driven plan), lenders may still use a calculated payment for qualifying. Bottom line: student loans don’t stop you from buying a home. As long as your monthly numbers make sense and you’ve been paying consistently, you’re still very much in the game.

For a $400,000 house, most buyers typically need around $100K–$130K in household income to be comfortable. It really depends on your down payment, interest rate, and other debts, but lenders usually want your monthly payment to stay within a manageable portion of your income. If you have less debt or put more money down, you could qualify with less, but that range is a solid general benchmark.

It’s normal to feel lost—title reports are full of legal language. Key things to check: Liens/judgments – Any unpaid debts or claims on the property. Easements – Rights others have to use part of your property. Restrictions/covenants – Rules about what you can do on the property. Ownership issues – Make sure the seller is the legal owner. You don’t need to understand every word—focus on anything that could affect ownership or use, and ASK your agent or title company to explain the confusing parts.

Real estate isn’t automatically a money trap or a guaranteed wealth-builder—it depends on how you buy and manage it. Why it can build wealth: Owning property lets you build equity over time, benefit from appreciation, and potentially generate rental income if you house hack or invest. Mortgages let you leverage your money, so small upfront investments can grow. Why it can be risky: Unexpected repairs, vacancies, market downturns, or overextending on your mortgage can strain your finances. Poor timing or buying without a buffer can turn it into a money sink. The truth is it’s a tool—you can make it work if you buy smart, know your numbers, and plan for surprises, but it’s not risk-free or automatic.

You can get two inspections, but it’s usually not necessary unless the first inspector is rushed or you have specific concerns. A few points to consider: Cost vs benefit – Two full inspections can be expensive, and most qualified inspectors will catch the major issues in one. Usefulness – Sometimes different inspectors notice slightly different things, but a good inspector’s report is usually enough to negotiate repairs or credits. Negotiation – You can use both reports to negotiate, but the seller may push back if it seems like you’re “shopping for issues.” Usually, one thorough, detailed inspection report is enough to ask for repairs or price adjustments. A practical alternative is: get one inspection, and if it flags major issues, you can bring in a specialist (like a structural engineer or electrician) for a second opinion on that specific problem. That’s usually cheaper and more credible.

“House hacking” is more than just getting a roommate—it’s any strategy where part of your property generates income to cover your housing costs. Common ways: Multi-unit properties – Live in one unit of a duplex/triplex/fourplex and rent the others; rental income can cover your mortgage. Single-family with rooms to rent – Rent out bedrooms to roommates or on Airbnb. Accessory dwelling units (ADUs) – Rent out a separate unit on your property if allowed. Financing usually works through an owner-occupied mortgage, and rental income from other units can help qualify. The goal is to charge enough rent to cover your costs, sometimes letting you live “rent-free.”

There is no strict standard, but the typical approach is to focus on major and safety-related issues first. A cracked heat exchanger (which is a serious health risk) and roof leaks are absolutely reasonable to request repairs or a credit for, while smaller cosmetic items like holes in walls, worn carpet, and broken vent covers are usually considered part of normal wear and tear and are often left for the buyer to handle. Many buyers prefer to ask for a credit instead of repairs so they can control the quality of the work, but whether $10,000 is appropriate depends on actual repair estimates in your area. The best approach is to prioritize the big items, gather rough bids if possible, and then decide whether to ask for repairs, a credit, or a combination based on what keeps the deal together and works best for your situation. Aka. Your agent should be getting necessary bids to dictate an actual credit amount rather than a blanket "10K".

Smart features like a video doorbell, thermostat, garage door opener, and smart locks can make your home feel more modern and appealing, but they usually don’t add meaningful appraised value they’re more of a convenience and marketing bonus than a price booster buyers expect them in some homes but won’t typically pay a premium for them especially if they’re glitchy or high maintenance in fact overly complicated setups or things that don’t work smoothly can turn buyers off so simple reliable systems tend to help more than going all in on smart tech. I would always consult your agent on what is necessary.

Before you spend money, just look up the address on the FEMA Flood Map Service Center it’ll show if the home is in a low risk zone X moderate risk (shaded X or B) or high risk (A AE VE) where flood insurance is usually required and much more expensive you can also have your agent pull the flood designation or call an insurance agent for a quick quote but this check alone takes a couple minutes and can save you a lot upfront.

You’re on the right track. Cosmetic fixes like paint, flooring, and fixtures are totally fine. The real risk is in big, expensive issues that are hard to predict or control. Generally safe (good fixer-upper stuff): Paint, flooring, cabinets, light fixtures, minor drywall repairs, landscaping Proceed with caution (get bids first): Roof repairs, HVAC replacement, older plumbing, electrical updates Major red flags (can get very expensive fast): Foundation problems (cracks, settling), significant mold or water damage, knob and tube wiring, sewer line issues, structural damage When to seriously consider walking: If the problem affects safety or structure, if costs are unclear, or if repair estimates blow past your budget and the seller will not negotiate Simple rule: visible and straightforward = manageable, hidden or structural = high risk

A 2-1 buydown can be helpful short term because it lowers your rate (and payment) for the first two years, but it does not permanently reduce your cost like a price reduction does. In year one and two, you will save money monthly, which can help with affordability early on, but in year three your rate resets to the full note rate, so if rates have not dropped, your payment will increase to that higher amount. A price reduction, on the other hand, lowers your loan balance permanently, which reduces your payment for the life of the loan and can have a bigger long-term impact. Many buyers choose a buydown if they believe they will refinance within a couple of years, but if you plan to hold the loan and are unsure about future rates, a price reduction is usually the more conservative and predictable option.

No, you can’t force the sellers to accept your mail before closing because they still legally own and occupy the home, so you don’t have possession rights yet. They’re not obligated to hold or manage anything delivered there, and it could be returned or lost. Your best bet is to use a temporary solution like a PO Box or mail forwarding through the United States Postal Service, or have it sent to a trusted friend or family member until you officially take ownership. Every state operates a bit differently though, so check with your agent on what your specific options are.

Outside of approaching him directly there is no guaranteed way to signal interest before it hits the market but you can have your agent reach out send a simple letter or check public records to see if there is any contact info. You can also ask your agent to keep an eye on any pre market activity through the MLS but in most cases a respectful direct approach or agent outreach is your best shot.

You are probably hearing about changes tied to the NARn commission lawsuit settlement it does not mean buyer’s agents are free it just means commissions are more negotiable and not automatically offered the same way. You may still pay your agent directly ask the seller to cover it or negotiate a mix. The easiest way to bring it up is just be direct and ask your agent how they are handling compensation now and what your options look like any good agent will expect that question and will not find it awkward.

It depends on your state but in many cases ongoing neighbor disputes or known issues that could affect a buyer’s decision may need to be disclosed, especially if they are documented or could be considered a nuisance. Things like conflict complaints harassment or mail issues can cross that line, so it is important to be careful here. The best move is to talk with your agent and possibly a local real estate attorney so you disclose properly without over sharing since every state handles this a bit differently.