Brian Side

One additional angle to keep in mind is the financing side of the transaction, because lenders treat this very differently than buyers and sellers often expect. Furniture is personal property, not real property. Appraisers are valuing the house and the land, not the contents inside it. Because of that, lenders generally will not allow furniture to be included in the value of the home or financed in the mortgage. If a contract shows $20K allocated to furniture, underwriting may require that to be removed or separated from the purchase price. In some cases it can even complicate the appraisal if it appears the price of the home is inflated to cover personal property. Since you don't actually want the furniture, the practical solution may simply be to accept it as part of the deal and deal with it after closing. There are many charities, churches, and local nonprofits that will pick up furniture for free, and some buyers end up donating it or selling pieces locally. Your Realtor should be able to point you to organizations that handle pickup. If you want to be a bit tactical about it, another approach is to get the house under contract first, then allow the lender's guidelines to drive the conversation. Once the file is in underwriting, lenders often flag personal property in the contract and require it to be removed or adjusted. In that scenario, the lender essentially becomes the neutral party explaining that they cannot finance $20K of furniture, which sometimes gives everyone a clean way to restructure the deal. At the end of the day, it still comes down to a simple question: is this the hill worth dying on? If the seller refuses to move and the house is truly the right one, the furniture may just become a logistical issue you solve after closing. If not, you hold your line and keep looking. That decision usually depends less on the furniture and more on how much you want the house.

The other response is good advice. One additional thing I would make sure of is that you are not only released from the listing agreement itself, but also from any survival or protection clauses in the contract. Many listing agreements include what is called a " protection periodaEUR? or " tail period.aEUR? That means if the agent introduced a buyer to the property during the listing, they may still be entitled to a commission if that buyer purchases the home within a certain time frame after the agreement ends. Sometimes this period can be 30, 60, or even 90 days depending on the contract. So if you are asking to cancel, make sure the written cancellation specifically states that: aEURc The listing agreement is terminated aEURc You are fully released from the agreement aEURc Any protection period or trailing commission rights are waived, unless there are specific buyers already identified in writing Also, I would strongly recommend getting the release in writing and signed by the brokerage, not just the individual agent. In most cases the contract is actually with the brokerage, not the agent personally. Until you have that written release, assume the agreement is still active. A good agent should have no problem providing a simple mutual cancellation and release form if both parties agree to part ways. It keeps everything clean and prevents headaches later.

Short answer: you likely don't need to wait two years at your current job. In your situation, most lenders are looking at the overall story of your employment, not just how long you've been at this specific company. If your current full-time job is related to what you studied, your time in college can usually count toward that " two-year historyaEUR? requirement. I've seen plenty of buyers come straight out of school, step into a salaried role, and get approved without needing a long track record at that employer. Being about three months into a full-time position is often enough for many loan programs, especially if you're salaried. What lenders really want to see is that your income is stable and likely to continue. If you're past any probation period and can show consistent pay stubs, that typically checks the box. In some cases, lenders will even work off an offer letter and a short employment history if everything else looks strong. Where it matters more is the rest of your profile. Your credit score, your debt-to-income ratio, and how much you have saved for a down payment and reserves will carry more weight than whether you've been at your job for three months versus twelve. If your income is straightforward salary, that makes things easier. If it's heavily based on bonuses, commission, or overtime, lenders usually want a longer track record to average that income out. If you're planning to buy within the next year, it's worth talking to a local lender now rather than waiting. They can look at your degree, job, and income and give you a clear picture of where you stand and what to improve over the next few months. In this market, getting that clarity early puts you in a much stronger position when you're ready to make a move. Bottom line, you're probably closer than you think. With a stable, salaried job tied to your field of study, many lenders will consider your file well before you hit two years at your current company. I have some no-pressure lenders in the Seattle Area you could speak with directly if you want to explore further. Brian Side Upside Properties: Seattle, WA

Yes, you can absolutely switch lenders at this stage, and it's actually pretty normal to shop around before you're under contract. A pre-approval isn't a commitment. It just means one lender has reviewed your finances and is willing to lend based on what they see today. Until you're in a transaction and moving toward closing, you're free to work with whoever you want. In fact, this is the best time to compare options, not after you're already in escrow with a deadline. As for your credit, mortgage inquiries are treated a little differently than other types of credit pulls. The scoring models typically group multiple mortgage inquiries made within a short window as a single event, since they know people shop for rates. So if you apply with another lender within that window, the impact to your score is usually minimal. That said, I'd look beyond just the headline interest rate. Sometimes a lower rate comes with higher fees, points, or stricter underwriting. A good comparison is to ask each lender for a loan estimate and look at the full picture: rate, closing costs, lender fees, and how easy they are to work with. Additionally, I will typically have the Lender Call the listing agent once the offer is submitted to make them feel more comfortable accepting a client's offer. A lender can really play a big part in offer acceptance if you are in a competitive situation.

No, you don't need to put 20% down. That's one of the biggest misconceptions I see, especially with first-time buyers. The idea behind 20% is mainly to avoid PMI (private mortgage insurance), which is an extra monthly cost lenders add when you put less down. But plenty of buyers get in with much less. I regularly see conventional loans in the 3% to 5% range, FHA around 3.5%, and some first-time buyer programs even lower depending on income and eligibility. The bigger question isn't " how do I get to 20%,aEUR? it's " what keeps me financially comfortable after I buy.aEUR? You don't want to drain everything just to hit a down payment number. I usually walk buyers through a few key points. Make sure you still have an emergency reserve after closing, ideally a few months of expenses. Keep your monthly payment in a range that feels sustainable, not stretched. And leave room for ongoing ownership costs like maintenance and repairs. PMI gets a bad reputation, but in a lot of cases it's simply the cost of getting into the market sooner. On conventional loans, it can be removed later once you build enough equity, either by paying the loan down or through appreciation. I'd also be careful about trying to match your current rent exactly. Owning usually comes with additional costs beyond the mortgage, so it's smart to give yourself a cushion. If you're watching prices rise while you're saving, that's a real tradeoff to think through. Waiting to hit 20% can sometimes cost more in the long run than buying earlier with a smaller down payment, but it depends on your comfort level and stability. A good next step is to talk with a lender and have them run a few scenarios, like 5% down versus 10% down, so you can see the real monthly difference. Once you see the numbers clearly, the decision gets a lot easier. Bottom line, you don't need 20% to buy a home. You need a plan that gets you in without putting yourself in a tight spot afterward. Brian Side Seattle, WA ( Born and raised in Spokane, though)