Answers by Nathan Dart

Yes—there are loan options specifically for fixer-uppers, like FHA 203(k), Fannie Mae HomeStyle, and Freddie Mac CHOICERenovation, which let you finance both the home and repairs into one loan. These are great for first-time buyers but come with more paperwork, stricter rules (often requiring licensed contractors), and longer closing times. A fixer-upper can be a smart way to get into a pricier market like Portland, especially if the issues are truly cosmetic (floors, paint, kitchen updates), but it becomes risky if there are hidden structural, electrical, or moisture problems—which are common in older homes. The safest approach is to target homes that are outdated but fully functional, budget extra for surprises, and avoid properties needing major system repairs unless you have strong financial cushion and renovation experience.

Here’s how I advise my own sellers to handle this, and it’s a conversation we’re having more and more often. The short answer is, don’t transfer accounts; make sure that you reset the devices. I’ve seen deals get messy when this isn’t handled correctly. Buyers can’t activate the devices, or worse, sellers still have access after closing. Neither situation is good. What I recommend (and what we do on our listings): 1. Disconnect everything from your apps first Before touching the devices, log out and remove them from whatever platform you’re using, Ring, Google Home / Nest, Ecobee, Apple Home, etc. This cuts off your remote access and removes your personal data from the cloud side. 2. Factory reset every device (this is the big one) Doorbells, thermostats, cameras — everything gets reset back to default. If you skip this step, the buyer often can’t even set it up. I’ve had to get involved post-closing just to help buyers “claim” devices that were still tied to the seller. 3. Decide what actually stays In my market, here’s how it usually plays out: - Thermostats and doorbells → typically stay (they’re considered part of the home) - Built-in or mounted cameras → depends, but often stay if marketed - Plug-in cameras or hubs → usually go with the seller The key is consistency with what was marketed and written into the contract. 4. Don’t transfer logins or passwords Seems obvious, but I’ve seen it happen. That’s a hard no. Too much personal data is tied to those accounts. 5. Quick pro move: leave a simple note for the buyer If you’re leaving devices, a one-pager goes a long way: - What’s included - What app they need - Confirmation that everything has been reset It makes the transition smoother and avoids the “hey, how do I use this?” call after closing. Most of my clients leave the big-ticket smart features (thermostat, doorbell) because they’re already installed and add value, but they wipe everything clean first. Cameras are more of a 50/50 depending on how integrated they are. Treat it like handing over the keys and you’re giving them the system, not your access to it.

I get this question every election cycle, and the honest answer is that the election matters less than people think, but the timing around it can matter. What I consistently see is a short-term “wait and see” effect leading up to an election. Some buyers pause, some sellers hold off, and activity can dip slightly. But that’s hesitation, not a shift in the fundamentals. The buyers who are in the market during that time are typically more serious, which can actually work in your favor as a seller. Where most people get this wrong is assuming elections drive prices. They don’t. Home values are driven by supply, demand, and interest rates, and not by who wins the election. Could policy changes eventually influence rates or the broader economy? Sure. But that’s a slower, indirect impact and not something that immediately changes what your home is worth. What I’ve seen happen over and over is that once the election passes, activity tends to pick back up. Buyers who were sitting on the sidelines re-engage, and that momentum often carries into the spring market. So the real decision isn’t “before or after the election”, it’s really “do I want to take advantage of less competition now, or more demand later?” If you sell before the election, you’re likely dealing with fewer competing listings and more motivated buyers. If you wait until spring, you’ll probably see more overall buyer activity, but you’ll also be competing with a larger number of homes, many of which were held off for the same reason. You can win in either market if the home is positioned correctly. I’ve sold homes for top dollar both before and after elections. The difference wasn’t the timing of the election—it was how the home was priced, marketed, and exposed to the market.

I see this come up more than it should, and I get why it caught you off guard. Your agent isn’t required to verbally walk you through every clause, but this is one of those things that should have been clearly explained. When I sit down with a seller, I always cover commission, term, and what happens if either side wants out, so there are no surprises. That said, the contract is what controls. Some listing agreements include language that says commission can be earned under certain conditions, not just at closing. But owing a full 5% just for terminating is not typical, so it’s worth taking a closer look at the exact wording. I would: - Go back and read that clause carefully - Check if it’s tied to a specific situation (like a ready/willing buyer or a cancellation fee) - Talk directly to the broker, not just the agent In my experience, most of these get worked out without you paying a full commission, especially if the home never sells. Unfortunately, it's not ideal. This wasn’t explained, but the path forward depends on what the contract actually says.